How to Choose a Fly Fishing Net (Size, Material, and Handle)

A landing net is one of those pieces of fly fishing gear that seems simple until you buy the wrong one. Too small, and you lose fish at the net. Too large, and it catches every branch on the trail to the river. Wrong mesh material, and you damage the fish you intended to release. Wrong handle length, and you cannot reach the water from where you are standing.

Most fly fishers buy their first net on impulse — whatever is on the shelf at the shop or the first result online. Then they use it for a season and realize it does not work for how they actually fish. Here is how to choose the right one the first time.

Mesh Material: Rubber vs Nylon vs Silicone

The mesh is the most important decision. It directly affects fish safety, hook tangles, durability, and ease of use.

Rubber Mesh (The Modern Standard)

Rubber mesh has become the default for catch-and-release fly fishing, and for good reason. It is gentler on fish, easier to use, and more durable than alternatives.

Why it is better for fish: Rubber does not remove the slime coat from a fish's body. The slime coat is the fish's primary defense against infection and parasites — when a nylon net scrapes it off, the fish is significantly more vulnerable after release. Rubber mesh also creates less friction, which reduces scale damage and fin abrasion.

Practical benefits: Hooks do not tangle in rubber mesh the way they do in nylon or cotton. When you land a fish and need to remove the fly, rubber mesh lets you pop the hook out quickly instead of spending two minutes untangling a nylon web from a size 18 dry fly. This matters when you are fishing barbless (as many catch-and-release regulations require) because a tangled net gives the fish time to shake the hook.

Downsides: Rubber mesh nets are heavier than nylon. They also sag and stretch when wet, which can make them bulkier to carry. In cold weather, rubber mesh can stiffen, though modern formulations have improved this.

Nylon Mesh

Nylon mesh was the standard for decades. It is lightweight, compact, and cheap. But it damages fish, tangles hooks, and has largely been replaced by rubber for fly fishing applications.

When it still makes sense: If you are fishing for species you intend to keep (not catch-and-release), nylon mesh works fine. It is lighter and more packable than rubber. For backpacking trips where every ounce matters and you plan to keep your catch, nylon is acceptable.

When to avoid it: Any catch-and-release fishing. Most fly fishing waters have catch-and-release regulations for at least some species, and many now explicitly require rubber mesh nets. Even where it is not required, rubber is the ethical choice for fish you intend to release.

Silicone-Coated Mesh

Some nets use a nylon or fiber mesh coated in silicone. This provides some of the fish-friendliness of rubber while maintaining a lighter weight and more compact profile. It is a reasonable middle ground but does not match pure rubber for slime coat protection, and hooks still tangle more than with rubber.

Hoop Size

The hoop (the opening of the net) determines what size fish you can land comfortably and how easy it is to scoop a fish from the water.

Small hoops (12-15 inches wide): Appropriate for small streams and fish under 14 inches. Good for wild trout on mountain creeks. Compact, lightweight, and easy to carry. A small hoop on a small stream is all you need.

Medium hoops (16-20 inches wide): The most versatile size. Handles fish from 12-22 inches comfortably. This is the right size for most river trout fishing — whether you are wading a tailwater for 18-inch browns or nymphing a freestone for 14-inch rainbows. If you buy one net, this is the size.

Large hoops (21-28 inches wide): Necessary for steelhead, large salmon, or big bass. If you regularly fish for fish over 22 inches, you need a large hoop. These nets are bulky and heavy — not something you want to carry on a four-mile hike to a backcountry stream, but essential when a 30-inch steelhead is running downstream.

The common mistake: Buying a hoop that is too small for your fishery. When a fish larger than expected shows up (and it will), a small net forces you to make multiple scooping attempts, which exhausts the fish and increases mortality. Better to have slightly more net than you think you need.

Handle Length

Handle length determines how far you can reach to scoop a fish from the water. The right length depends on where you fish.

Short handles (8-12 inches): For small-stream wade fishing where you are standing in the water close to your fish. Short handles keep the net compact and easy to carry on a magnetic release or in a holster on your pack. Most small-stream trout nets use short handles.

Medium handles (15-22 inches): The standard for general wade fishing. Provides enough reach to scoop a fish from the water while standing waist-deep in a river. Long enough to be useful, short enough to carry without the handle catching on brush.

Long handles (24-36+ inches): For fishing from boats, high banks, or any situation where you cannot easily wade close to the fish. Drift boat guides typically use long-handled nets. If you fish from a float tube, pontoon boat, or kayak, a long handle prevents you from leaning dangerously to reach the water.

Telescoping handles are available and solve the "I want short for carrying and long for landing" problem. They add mechanical complexity and cost, but good telescoping handles work reliably.

Frame Material

Net frames are typically made from wood, aluminum, carbon fiber, or a combination.

Wood: Classic appearance, moderate weight, floats if dropped (important in moving water). Laminated hardwood frames are durable and beautiful. Downside: heavier than aluminum or carbon fiber, and wood can crack if stressed.

Aluminum: Lightweight, strong, and affordable. Most rubber-mesh nets aimed at wading anglers use aluminum frames. They do not float if dropped, which is a concern when wading deep water. Some anglers attach a tether or use a magnetic net release to prevent loss.

Carbon fiber: The lightest option and increasingly popular for premium nets. Strong, stiff, and comfortable to carry all day. More expensive than aluminum. Also does not float.

Five Nets Worth Considering

1. Fishpond Nomad Mid-Length (Medium Hoop, Medium Handle)

The most popular all-around fly fishing net on the market. Carbon fiber and fiberglass composite frame, rubber mesh, 17-inch wide hoop. Lightweight at 14 ounces, floats if dropped (the composite material is positively buoyant), and the rubber mesh is excellent. This is the "buy one net for everything" recommendation for wade fishing.

2. Fishpond Nomad Hand Net (Small Hoop, Short Handle)

Same construction as the mid-length but in a compact size for small streams. 12.5-inch wide hoop, 7.5-inch handle. Clips easily to a pack or vest. Ideal for mountain stream trout fishing where you are hiking to the water.

3. Rising Brookie Net (Small Hoop, Short Handle)

A beautifully made small-stream net with a laminated wood frame and clear rubber mesh. The wood construction gives it a classic feel and it floats reliably. At $80-90, it is more expensive than comparable small nets, but the craftsmanship is excellent.

4. Measure Net (Medium-Large Hoop, Integrated Ruler)

A practical net with measurement markings built into the frame, allowing you to measure fish without handling them excessively. Rubber mesh, aluminum frame, available in multiple sizes. Useful if you fish waters with size restrictions and want quick verification before release.

5. Fishpond El Jefe (Large Hoop, Long Handle)

Built for guides and boat fishing. Large 24-inch hoop, 26-inch handle, rubber mesh, composite frame. This is the net you reach for when a 28-inch steelhead or a 24-inch brown is running. Too large for wade-fishing portability but essential for big-fish situations.

Carrying Your Net

How you carry your net matters as much as which net you buy. A net that bounces against your back and catches every branch on the trail will stay in the car.

Magnetic net release: A clip with a strong magnet that attaches to your pack strap. The net hangs behind your back and detaches with a quick pull when you need it. Reattaches by pressing the magnet together. This is the most popular carry method and works well for medium and small nets.

Net holster: A rigid or semi-rigid holster that attaches to your pack and holds the net handle. More secure than a magnetic release but slower to deploy.

Tether: A coiled or straight tether that connects the net to your vest or pack. Prevents losing the net if dropped in the water. Essential for wading in fast, deep water.

Key Takeaways

• Rubber mesh is non-negotiable for catch-and-release fishing — it protects the fish's slime coat and eliminates hook tangles
• Medium hoop (16-20 inches) is the most versatile size for most trout and general fly fishing
• Match handle length to how you fish — short for small-stream wading, medium for river wading, long for boats
• The Fishpond Nomad Mid-Length is the best all-around net for most fly fishers — lightweight, floats, rubber mesh
• Do not buy too small — undersized nets exhaust fish during landing and increase mortality
• A magnetic net release is the most convenient way to carry your net while wading
• Budget expectation: $40-$130 for a quality rubber-mesh net that will last years

A good net is gear you buy once. Choose the right size and mesh material for your fishery, and you will use it for a decade without thinking about it again.

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